This lonely outpost of India has much to offer free spirits in search of adventure and the exotic. Almost wholly surrounded by politically volatile Bangladesh, Tripura beckons with its unique tribal culture and nature’s bounty

The most low-profile of the much-neglected ‘Seven Sister’ states of northeast India, Tripura (pop. 3.6 million) remains unfamiliar territory for the overwhelming majority of Indians. Almost entirely surrounded — to the north, west and south — by Bangladesh (pop. 176 million), it shares its eastern borders with the Indian states of Assam and Mizoram.

Partly because of its remote location and decades of insurgency that troubled this tiny northeastern state until the early 2000s, Tripura failed to attract large numbers of domestic or international tourists. In recent years, however, improved connectivity, better infrastructure and relative peace have begun to attract travellers to this lesser-known corner of India.

Nevertheless, this once-isolated outpost of India has much to offer free spirits in search of adventure and the exotic. Nestled in the scenic Jampui Hills, Tripura beckons visitors with its distinctive tribal culture and abundant natural beauty. Nobel laureate Rabindranath Tagore famously described Tripura as the “land of eternal love.” Granted full statehood in 1972, Tripura sprawls across 10,491 sq km and offers extensive forest cover of nearly 5,745 sq km.

In ancient Hindu texts, Tripura is described as ‘Twipra’ — meaning “land adjoining water” — because historically its boundaries stretched from the Garo Hills of present-day Meghalaya to Arakan in Myanmar and down to the Bay of Bengal. Although the name Tripura appears on Ashoka pillars dating back to the third century BCE, the recorded history of the region begins in the 13th century under the rule of the Manikya dynasty.

The Mughal Empire invaded the northeast in 1618. Although the invaders were eventually forced to withdraw following an epidemic, parts of the low-lying plains remained under Mughal influence. After the decline of the Mughal Empire, control of the region shifted to the British East India Company when Robert Clive secured the diwani of Bengal in 1765. The Manikya rulers continued to govern Tripura as zamindars under British protection.

Development in this remote region progressed more slowly than in other princely states of British India. State revenues were supplemented by the Raja’s zamindari estates in Bengal, but these were insufficient to fund major projects. It was only during the reign of Maharaja Bir Chandra Kishore Manikya in the late 19th century that tentative steps toward administrative reform and development were taken.

A more determined programme of modernisation emerged during the reign of Maharaja Kirit Birendra Kishore Manikya in the early 20th century. This enlightened ruler reformed the revenue system, the courts, police and army, while also building roads, hospitals and schools. He established alliances through marriages with Nepalese royal families and sent his sons and relatives to study in modern institutions outside the state.

In 1923, the 15-year-old Maharaja Bir Bikram Kishore Manikya succeeded to the throne. Working with a Council of Regency that included British officials, he introduced further administrative reforms, expanded education and improved infrastructure. However, his untimely death in 1947 left the throne to his 14-year-old son, Maharaja Kirit Bikram Kishore Manikya.

This was a crucial moment in Tripura’s history. India had just gained independence, and the creation of West and East Pakistan triggered massive migration across the region. Because Tripura was surrounded on three sides by East Pakistan (now Bangladesh), it experienced a huge influx of refugees that strained the state’s limited resources. Unable to manage the crisis, the Maharaja’s mother — serving as Regent — decided to merge Tripura with India.

An agreement for the merger of Tripura with the Indian Union was signed on September 9, 1947, and administration was formally transferred to the Government of India on October 15, 1949. Tripura became a Union Territory in 1956, gained a popular ministry in 1963, and was finally granted full statehood on January 21, 1972.

The climate of Tripura is typically hot and humid. Summers (March–May) see temperatures ranging from 25°C to 36°C. Winter begins in October and lasts until February, with temperatures ranging between 13°C and 27°C. Heavy rainfall occurs during the monsoon months from May to August. The best time to visit the state is between September and March.

The principal languages spoken in this predominantly agrarian state are Bengali and Kokborok, the language of the indigenous Tripuri people

Agartala

The administrative capital of Tripura, Agartala was founded in 1838 by Maharaja Krishna Kishore Manikya. Situated on a plain running parallel to the River Haora, which flows through the city, Agartala served as the seat of the Manikya dynasty for over a century.

Located barely two kilometres from the Bangladesh border, the city boasts charming palaces, temples and a tribal museum. Handloom weaving is Tripura’s most important traditional industry, and visitors can shop for beautifully designed woven bags, textiles, apparel and accessories in the city’s bustling markets. Cane and bamboo furniture and handicrafts are also popular souvenirs.

Life in Agartala revolves around the imposing Ujjayanta Palace, built in 1901 by Maharaja Radha Kishore Manikya. Surrounded by nearly 28 hectares of landscaped parkland and overlooking two large ponds, the two-storeyed palace features elegant domes, carved wooden ceilings and intricately crafted doors. Today the palace houses the Tripura State Museum, which displays artefacts, tribal heritage collections and royal memorabilia.

Within a short distance is Kunjaban Palace, built in 1917 on a hillock by Maharaja Birendra Kishore Manikya. A gifted artist, the Maharaja personally supervised the palace’s design and landscaping. Nobel laureate Rabindranath Tagore stayed in its eastern apartment, known as Malancha Niwas, during his final visit to the state in 1926. Today the palace serves as the official residence of the Governor of Tripura and is not open to the public.

The Tripura Government Museum houses fascinating artefacts recovered from excavations across the state, along with an impressive gallery of colonial-era paintings and etchings. The ruins of the former capital, now known as Old Agartala, lie about 5 km east in the village of Khayerpur. The Chaturdasa Devata Temple — dedicated to fourteen deities — hosts the famous Kharchi Puja festival each July.

Accommodation. Top-end and mid-range: Hotel Polo Towers (Rs.5,500 per night), Hotel Airdrop (Rs.4,110), The Parkline (Rs.3,802), The Parkline Classic (Rs.3,534), The Elite (Rs.3,328); Budget: Hotel Woodland Park (Rs.2,930), Hotel Welcome Palace (Rs.2,660), Hotel Palace Inn (Rs.1,892).

Excursions ex Agartala. Since the interior regions of Tripura have not been developed for tourism in terms of hotel infrastructure, it’s advisable to make Agartala (pop 343,633) the base of excursions into the hinterland.

Sepahijala Wildlife Sanctuary has an area of 18.53 sq. km. This nature park is 28 km from Agartala, and hosts 456 plant species and over 150 species of residential and migratory birds, rhesus macaque, pigtailed macaque, capped langur, spectacled monkey, slow loris and several other wild animals like leopard, clouded leopard, jungle fowl, civets, barking, deer, wild pig, an orchid garden, a lake with boating facilities, plus a zoo and toy train. The famous spectacled monkey of Tripura is a native of this sanctuary. The state’s other wildlife sanctuary Trishna is approx 111 km from Agartala.

Neermahal. Some 53 km from Agartala is the spectacular Neermahal (water palace), sited on an island in the Rudrasagar lake and constructed by Maharaja Birbikram Kishore Manikya in 1930, as a summer retreat for royals. The only lake palace in eastern India, it’s a blend of Mughal and Hindu architecture and its vast gardens host an open-air auditorium, the venue of numerous dance and theatre festivals.

Though slowly falling into ruin, Neermahal is not to be missed. The state government has targeted the palace for renovation and a son-et-lumiere (sound and light) show.

Boating and water sports are offered on the Rudrasagar lake where a boat race festival is held every August. The lake is a haven for bird watchers as many migratory species visit in winter. For those wishing to enjoy the palace by night, Sagar Mahal, sited on the banks of Rudrasagar, offers modest but comfortable accommodation.

Udaipur

The ancient Hindu pilgrim centre of Udaipur (39 km from Agartala) is centred around the huge Jagannath Digthi (water) tank. The ruined Jagannath Mandir once hosted the famous Jagannath deity of Puri (Orissa). About 4 km from Udaipur is the revered Tripura Sundari temple dedicated to goddess Kali. One of the 51 pithasthans of Hinduism, the temple comprises a square sanctum area of typical Bengali-hut style, with a conical dome. According to Hindu mythology, Lord Vishnu severed the body of Mata Sati into 51 pieces. The places where her body parts fell are known as pithasthans.

The Sundari temple pithasthan is also known as kurma pith, because in silhouette the temple resembles a ‘kurma’ or tortoise. Goddess Kali is worshipped here in her soroshi avatar. In the eastern wing of the temple compound is the famous Kalyan Sagar lake where huge tortoises of ancient vintage are fed puffed rice and biscuits by devotees.

Situated on the right bank of River Gomati in Udaipur is the Bhuvaneshwari temple adjoined by the ruins of a palace built by Maharaja Govinda Manikya.

Seventy five km from Agartala and well worth the trip is Deotamura, famed for its panels of rock carvings on a steep hill face on the banks of River Gomati. The wall showcases stunning images of Shiva, Vishnu, Kartika, Durga and other gods and goddesses of the Hindu pantheon dating back to the 15th-16th centuries.

There are very few accommodation options in Udaipur. Most tourists prefer to stay at Agartala and travel to and from there.

Pilak. Further afield about 100 km from Agartala is Pilak, a sparsely populated and a historic archeological site. Recently the Archeological Survey of India discovered many stone images and terracotta plaques dating back to the 8th-9th centuries here. The stone images scattered over 10 sq. km display intricate carvings on colossal statues of Avolokiteswara and Narashimha. Several terracotta plaques and seals depicting images of the Buddha have also been discovered at Pilak, which is being developed into a Buddhist pilgrimage centre.

Dumboor Lake. Set amidst green hills and surrounded by thick forest, Dumboor (115 km from Agartala) is a tourist hot spot. With a diameter of 41 sq. km, Dumboor is dotted with 41 islands and is the repository confluence of rivers Raima and Sarma. Numerous species of migratory birds make this azure lake their home every winter. Boating and water sports facilities are offered by the state tourism department.

Unakoti

The ancient pilgrim centre of Unakoti (178 km from Agartala) is famed for its 8th century bas-relief rock carvings, including a 30 ft-high representation of Lord Shiva. Literally translated, Unakoti means ‘one less than a crore’ as it is believed that as many rock cut carvings are found here. According to Hindu mythology, Lord Shiva with an entourage of one crore gods and goddesses made a night halt at Unakoti on his way to Kashi. Before retiring for the night, he ordered all of them to awake before sunrise and proceed towards Kashi (Benaras). When nobody woke from slumber, an angry Lord Shiva set out on his own towards Kashi after cursing the other deities and transforming them into stone images.

Of the numerous rock cut carvings found here, the gigantic statues of Shiva and Ganesha deserve special mention. Lord Shiva is crowned by an intricately carved 10 ft headdress. On either side are two life size statues — one of Durga on a lion’s back and another of an unknown goddess. Nearby are three enormous stone images of the Nandi Bull, half buried in the ground. Enhancing these exquisite carvings of Unakoti are gushing waterfalls and thick forests, housing rare varieties of orchids and amazing botanical diversity. Unsurprisingly Unakoti is a popular picnic spot. Moreover the Ashokastami mela held here every April attracts thousands of devotees from across the country.

Accommodation. Top end: Lemon Garden Resort (Rs.9,006 per night), Balishara Resort (Rs.7,591), Nihom Resort (Rs.7,018); Mid-range: Madhabilata Eco Cottage (Rs. 4,444), Paragon Hotel Resort (Rs.5,335), Hiltop Jungle Lodge (Rs.3,883); Budget: Greenpark Tea Resort (Rs.1,857), Hotel Grand Brothers (Rs.1,228), Green Leaf Guest House (Rs.1,109).

Jampui Hills

Famous for its oranges and spectacular landscapes, the Jampui Hills are known in the local language as the ‘land of eternal spring’. Rising 3,000 ft above sea level, Jampui, 200 km from Agartala, offers great natural beauty in its rolling green hills, untrammeled forests, fragrant orange orchards and invigorating climate. The weather is pleasant with little variation in temperature through the year. The highest point in Tripura, Betalongchhip (3,600 ft) is in Jampui affording sweeping vistas of the neighbouring state of Mizoram and Chittagong in Bangladesh.

The Jampui Hills comprise 11 villages inhabited by Tripura’s Lushai and Reang tribes, mainly engaged in oranges cultivation. October to December is the season of mellow fruitfulness, when orange trees laden with fruit assume a marvelous saffron hue. During March-May exotic orchids and wild flowers are in full bloom. In the monsoon months the hills are enveloped in clouds and it’s an ideal time for walking and trekking.

The natural beauty, pleasant weather, orchid gardens, orange orchards and hospitable people make the pristine climes of Jampui a perfect getaway for city weary tourists. Most tribal people are Christians, live in clean, neat houses and speak fluent English.

Moreover local people offer home stay facilities which enables visitors to experience the life and culture of the Lushai and Reang tribes from close quarters.

Getting there. Agartala is connected by road to Guwahati via Shillong by the National Highway No.44. The train service is via Guwahati and the nearest rail head is at Kumarghat, 140 km from Agartala. Direct flights also connect Kolkata and Guwahati to Agartala.