Andaman and Nicobar Islands: India’s islands in the sun

There are 500 uninhabitated islands with tropical forests, deserted beaches, exquisite coral and marine life within Andaman, Nicobar and Lakshadweep islands is likely to come as a pleasant surprise

In the popular imagination despite its 3.28 million sq. km landmass and its vast unpeopled rural tracts, contemporary India is a heavily overly-populated country with “teeming millions”. Therefore news that there are 500 virtually uninhabited islands, with dense tropical forests, miles of deserted beaches, unique fauna and exquisite coral and marine life within the territorial jurisdiction of India is likely to come as a pleasant surprise for the footloose and fancy free who are terrified by American and European prices and service quality.

The Andaman and Nicobar Islands lie 1,220 km southeast off the coast of Bengal and 1,450 km east of Chennai (aka Madras). These islands are actually peaks of a vast submerged mountain range which rises from the Indian Ocean within the territorial jurisdiction of the Republic of India and extends two-thirds the way between India and Myanmar (formerly Burma) stretching almost to the northern tip of the island of Sumatra in Indonesia. They are linked to the Indian mainland not by the ethnicity of their inhabitants but through complex confluences of colonial history. Discovery of the islands was first reported in the 9th century AD by Arab merchants sailing past to the Straits of Sumatra.

With a population of 434,000 the islands’ indigenous tribes have been studied for several centuries because of their manifestly different ethnicity, most famously by anthropologist Radcliffe Brown in his book The Andaman Islanders (1922). The main aboriginal tribe of the islands is the Onges, who live on the Little Andamans. They number only about 100, although at the start of the 20th century their population was an estimated 600. Like the other smaller Andamanese tribes such as the Sentinelese and Jarawas, the Onges are of Negrito descent. They practice food gathering, hunting, honey-collecting and fishing and are the only tribe on the islands who are friendly with the outside world. The Jarawas are the largest tribe and inhabit the west coasts of middle and south Andaman Islands. The estimated 150 Sentinelese live on North Sentinel Island and fiercely resist integration with outsiders.

Although the islands seem ideal for travellers looking for seclusion, there are significant restrictions. Access to the Nicobars as well as most of the Andamans is denied to everyone except Indian nationals engaged in research or government business. The official reason cited for restricting access is that the tribes are endangered and require protection. The establishment of an Indian Navy base is never cited as a reason, but is likely to have something to do with the restriction rules.

The first westerners to set foot on the islands were Danes who established a settlement in the Nicobars and left in 1768 due to poor health conditions. The British surveyed the Andamans in 1789 and established a penal colony but had to abandon it in 1796 also due to unhealthy living conditions. The East India Company used the Nicobars in 1816 as a base to launch an attack on Rangoon during the Anglo-Burmese Wars, and reoccupied the Andamans in 1858. Finally as the Danes in the south officially renounced their claim to the Nicobars, the British India government annexed both groups of islands in 1872, together with the Great and Little Cocos that lie off Burma. The only settlement developed by the British was Port Blair, where a penitentiary was built for prisoners serving life terms.

Until World War II, the islands remained untouched by time. In 1942, however, they became the westernmost beach-head of the Japanese, who were not welcomed as liberators and local tribes waged a fierce guerrilla war against them. During this period, in December 1943, Subhash Chandra Bose, the Indian nationalist leader who allied with the Japanese to oust the British from India, landed at Port Blair, and unfurled the tiranga jhanda, the Indian National Army’s flag. However, he could not, as he wished, establish an Indian Provisional Government administration there nor garrison the islands with the Indian National Army which he had raised.

When India became an independent nation in 1947, the Andamans and Nicobars were incorporated into the Indian Union, while the Cocos Islands went to Burma.

Currently, the Union government tends to trumpet its efforts to bring ‘civilization’ to these islands, but a growing number of sociologists believe that there is scant official sensitivity to the cultures of the indigenous tribes and the government’s attitude towards them can at best be described as condescending. The government’s endeavor to spur economic development in the islands has resulted in vast tracts of tropical rainforest being cleared in the 1980s for teak and rubber plantations. It has also attracted migration from the mainland, primarily people ousted from Sri Lanka — which has pushed the population from 50,000 to 434,000 in a mere 15 years.

Port Blair
This administrative capital was named after Lt. Reginald Blair who conducted a survey of the islands in 1789. It is the only town of any size on the islands with a market, Aberdeen Bazaar, which has the cheerful air of any colourful Indian market. Precariously situated on the main harbour, the town’s hilly topography offers breathtaking views of the Indian mainland from several vantage points. The government of India tourist office is injudiciously sited; at least a 20 minute walk from any recognisable place, but it is the venue for information about boats to other islands, sightseeing tours, and the several permits which are mandatory. (03192-232694 / 232747/03192-230933)

Cellular Jail. Now a museum, the Cellular Jail was built by the British at the turn of the 19th century. Its massive whitewashed walls held 400 freedom fighters during the struggle for independence. The prison contained 698 cells, all of the same size: 3×3.5 m. A grated window allowed a small shaft of light but its position ensured that the prisoners couldn’t look out to sea. Although much of the structure is dilapidated, and three of its six wings have sunk into the sea, the refurbished museum gives a fair idea of the morbid conditions under which political prisoners were incarcerated. A sound and light show provides a historical narrative of the jail.

Island Cruises. As most of the islands are reserves where tribes are protected from contact with the outside world, only a limited number are open to visitors. Hotels and tour operators in Port Blair organise day picnics, scuba-diving and snorkelling trips to Bird, Grub, Jolly Boy, Red Skin, Ross and Snob islands, and overnight excursions to Cinque Island which includes a small trek through the forest offering bird watching opportunity.

From the Marine Jetty, daily ferries ply across the harbour to Aberdeen Market and Vyper Island, where the remains of the gallows tower built by the British are still visible. The ferry rumbles past the Chattam Saw Mill, situated on an island off Haddo, and the huge, floating dry dock facility. The cruises are organised by the department of information, publicity and tourism, as well as hotels.

Beaches. The closest beach is Corbyn’s Cove, 10 km from Port Blair. The easiest way to get there is to hire a bicycle from Aberdeen Bazaar and cycle out for the day or take an auto rickshaw (Rs.150 from the city center). There are facilities to windsurf and enjoy other water sports, and after a long, sunny day you could step into the Andaman Beach Resort for a beer. There are other inviting beaches at Wandoor (19 km) and Chidiya Tapu (25 km) at the southern tip of the island. The neighbouring Snake Island is surrounded by coral reefs. You can sometimes catch a ride to the island in a fishing boat but it is inadvisable to swim out to sea because of strong currents. If you do visit the island, watch out for snakes!

Mini Zoo & Forest Museum. The Andaman and Nicobar Islands host over 200 indigenous animal species found nowhere else in the world, some of which can be seen in the mini zoo on Haddo Road. These include the green imperial pigeon and the Andaman pig, the staple diet of some tribal groups. The zoo’s saltwater crocodile breeding programme has done remarkably since its inception with many reptiles having been successfully released into the wild. Some rare animals such as the crab-eating macaque, which eats crabs only when there are no fruits, are classified as highly endangered species and enjoy maximum protection. As in zoos generally, the animals look jaded, but they do provide an insight into the spectacular ecology of the Andaman and Nicobar forests.

Anthropological Museum. This museum exhibits a mini-reproduction of the settlements of local tribes and is a good source of information about their lifestyles and culture. Although small, it has a well-stocked library of ethnographic and anthropological books and journals.

Other Places of Interest. Check out the Burmese temple in Phoenix Bay, and the local Cottage Industries Emporium. Excursions can be arranged from Port Blair to the Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose Island (3 km), Burma Nallah Beach (8 km) and Mount Harriet National Park (45 km). The aquarium and the Samudrika Naval Marine Museum display some of the 350 species of fish found in the Andaman Sea.

Accommodation. Top-end: Symphony Samudra Beachside Jungle Resort and Spa (Rs.13,408 per night), Sinclairs Bayview Port Blair (Rs.15,040), Hotel Sentinel (Rs.10,810); Mid-range: Golden Pebble (Rs.3,490), Sundaze Beach Resort (Rs.3,250), Coral Garden (Rs.2,519); Budget: Emerald Gecko, Neil Island (Rs.2,000), Blue Lagoon Resort (Rs.1,985), Sunray Homes (Rs.2,000).

Lakshadweep islands
Situated around 496 km off the coast of Kerala is a group of islands that make up India’s smallest Union Territory — the Lakshadweep Islands. This is an archipelago of coral atolls spread on a roughly north-south axis, along a huge underwater ridge believed to be an extension of the Aravalli mountain range of India. Only 10 of the 36 islands are inhabited by an aggregate population of 64,500. Although the islands are opening up to tourists, visitors still require a special permit to visit.

The early history of the Lakshadweeps is a matter of speculation. According to popular legend, the archipelago was discovered when Cheraman Perumal, a ruler of Malabar converted to Islam, and lost his way to Mecca. A search party was shipwrecked on Bangaram Island and mariners were awarded the right to settle on the islands. However, most historians now agree that the Cheraman Perumal legend has little foundation. In fact there is no real evidence to suggest who the first settlers on the Lakshadweeps were. The islands are situated on trade routes that have been in use for at least 2,000 years. Given their fresh supply of food and water, they would have been ideal rest stops for mariners of all types and religions persuasions.

Occupancy of the Lakshadweep islands oscillated between Portuguese garrisons and mainland rulers, the Ali Rajas of Cannanore, until the British prevailed in 1908. Although British rule over the islands was even handed, there was no attempt to develop them in any way. It is believed that when India achieved independence in 1947, it was several months before the islanders knew about it. For the next ten years, this situation persisted until the Union government decided that the islands were so far behind the rest of the country in development that the Delhi government should administer them.

The culture of the islanders is a peculiar mix of Indian and foreign influences, and Lakshadweep society reflects, in particular, a cross between Hindu and Arab traditions. One of the most unusual features of this society is the relative independence enjoyed by women. This is largely due to the matrilineal system of inheritance, where property and wealth assets are passed down the woman’s family. Even after marriage, women continue to live in their own houses, which their husbands visit. Having their own property, the island women are not reliant on their husbands and enjoy unusual financial freedom. It’s plausible that this tradition grew from the necessities of island life where the men were away at sea for long periods of time. The legendary traveller Marco Polo called Lakshadweep the “female islands”, perhaps for the very reason.

However, despite the peace and tranquility of the islands, they are one of the most crowded areas of India, with an average population density of 1,812 people per square kilometre. Overcrowding has created a shortage of fresh water, which has popularised rainwater harvesting. The main source of livelihood is trading in coconut and coir and fishing. Malayalam is spoken in the northern islands and the vernacular Mahl, Dhivehi and Jeseri are used for communication in Minicoy, Kavaratti, Kadmat and other islands.

The Society for the Promotion of Recreational Tourism and Sports (SPORTS) in Lakshadweep is the main tourist office, which can be approached for queries and support. Its office is on 2nd Floor, Lakshadweep Administrative Office, Indira Gandhi Road, Willingdon Island, Cochin-03 (Mobile: 09495984001, Email: laksports.reservation@gmail.com). Foreigners are only permitted to reside on Bangaram, Agatti and Kadmat Islands, whereas Indian nationals may also stay at Karavatti, Kalpeni and Minicoy. Bookings can be made at https://samudram.utl.gov.in for those traveling by cruise.

Kadmat. This northern group of islands was traditionally known as Amindivi Islands. Kadmat is the base for the Lacadives Diving Centre. Until recently, there was no accommodation for non-scuba divers but now arrangements can be made for those who want to laze and relax in the islands’ peaceful settings.

Agatti. This southern group of islands was traditionally the Laccadive Islands. More than 400 km from Kochi is Agatti, the westernmost island of the group. Roughly 7.6 km long and only 1 km wide at its broadest, Agatti hosts the only airstrip in the Lakshadweep.

Bangaram. These islands shot to fame when Rajiv and Sonia Gandhi holidayed at the Bangaram Island Resort in the 1980s. North east of Agatti and barely visible on the horizon is the island which is accessible by those taking a flight from Kochi and is an hour’s ride by speed boat from Agatti. Tinnakara and Parali islands are popular tourist destinations to visit from here by boat.

Near Bangaram Island are a Coral park and ship wreck popular snorkeling sites. The 200-year-old wreck of the Princess Royal is a regular snorkeling site when the sea is calm. Hammerhead sharks, manta rays, green turtles, hawksbill, eels and barracudas are among the larger inhabitants of the reefs, and once in a way a lucky diver may catch a glimpse of an octopus lazing in the reefs. The island is also a preferred destination for those eager to witness the bioluminescence on the beach and indulge in Milky Way photography.

Accommodation. Bangaram Island Resort offers packages including food and water sports (snorkelling, scuba diving, kayaking and sunset boat rides) from Rs. 8,000-20,000 per night for various combinations. Around 30 beach front cottages are available on the island.

Karavatti. Karavatti is the headquarters of this Union territory. Its people are skilled wood carvers and stonemasons. The Ujra Mosque is famous for its intricate woodcarving.

Minicoy. Sited 400 km from Kochi, Minicoy is believed to have been visited by Marco Polo. The island is more than 10 km in length and has a deep lagoon. There is a small island at the northern tip of the main island where small pox victims used to be isolated.

Accomodation. Swaying Palm is a six days tour to Minicoy offered by SPORTS Lakshadweep. Packages range between Rs.7,000-9,000 per night for air-conditioned beach-front cottages.

Scuba Diving. The Lakshadweep Islands are ideal for sub-aqua and marine enthusiasts. Surrounded by perfect coral reefs, they offer great variety. Within the lagoons, the shallow waters are perfect for amateur divers and provide the possibility of diving in rough weather. Beyond the reefs, there are dives into crystal clear waters with excellent visibility of coral, fish and rare marine species.

Minicoy is an island offering three large shipwrecks. These wrecks come alive as virtual underwater museums with several fish species that are perceived to be larger than the average size found elsewhere due to the consumption of Ferrous of the wrecks. Manta Ray is a nearly guaranteed citing in the dive sites including Ragganmathi, Mulimatti, Rabberufarai between September and February. Sharks, bull rays, turtles, school of jacks, red snappers, black snappers, napoleon wrasse, barracuda, sweet lips are also spotted in abundance.

Lacadives at Kadmat. There’s a diving centre on Kadmat Island and with the tourist cottages accommodation. Visitors want to stay on Kadmat, but don’t want to dive are charged Rs.4,000 to Rs 6,000 per night.

The Lakshadweep Islands are the perfect place for a relaxed and peaceful holiday. Visitors can avoid regular tourist traffic and the beach-junkies typical of other seaside destinations. Accommodation on most of the islands tends to be very basic with little else to do other than laze on hammocks and saunter the island watching sea birds.

However, the scuba diving and snorkeling is world class and on a par with the Maldives, Mauritius or Thailand, and completely free of commercial baggage. An hour of gliding lazily through the atolls, navigating among manta rays and keeping a close watch for sea turtles is likely to prompt you to come back for more.

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