Unique natural wonders of OrissaBittu SahgalA brisk wind anointed me with a mist of sea spray as I stood gazing outward at the lake that stretched to the distant horizon. Overhead a flock of cotton teal made their way towards the water, landing splashily less than 30 metres from where I stood. A host of other water birds had already taken up positions and were busy diving for fish, molluscs and other ‚Ëœgoodies‚ that nature has thoughtfully provided for them. And when a white-bellied sea eagle flew overhead, I saw a whole retinue of birds take to the air. The lakeshore was sandy, but here and there tall grasses and bushes provided both cover and food for uncounted creatures.It was winter and I was in Chilka, India‚s largest brackish water lake (900 sq km) arguably one of the Asia‚s finest wildlife refuges that supports an incredible diversity of marine life, including millions of migratory waterfowl and the most playful dolphins imaginable. It felt good to be alive.Earlier I had met with a man whom I desperately miss today, the late Banka Behari Das, who defended Orissa‚s natural heritage to the day he died. “Orissa was made by the Gods for the Gods. Look how we are abusing this bounty. I wonder whether we deserved such gifts. Promise me you will protect this land after I have gone.” Of course I made that promise. And today I work with people like Biswajit Mohanty and Belinda Wright of the Wildlife Preservation Society of India and with scientists such as Bivash Pandav, to defend Orissa‚s vast forests, shining seas and its amazingly rich wetlands like Barkul that support a whole range of avians including Asian openbill storks and flamingoes. One of the best ways I know to make people fall in love with nature is to encourage them to visit our wildernesses. Teachers can do this so easily ‚ school trips, projects that help kids explore wildlife refuges and even poetry and essay competitions with themes involving parks and sanctuaries.Chilka is just one of many stunning wildlife refuges in Orissa. A relatively short drive from Kolkata via Kharagpur, for instance, brings you to that other ‚Ëœheaven on earth‚, Simlipal. A 2,750 sq km tiger reserve, this dense forest also protects elephants and a bewildering diversity of forest birds and plants that has yet to be fully catalogued. Located in the Chota Nagpur plateau, it was once a shikargarh, or hunting preserve, of the Maharajas of Mayurbhanj, but now enjoys total protection. These forests, experts tell us, actually help control the climate of Central India by tempering the impact of the monsoons and by encouraging rivers to flow all year round. It‚s not easy to see tigers here, but no one comes away after a stay at one of the resthouses at Chahala, Joranda, Nawana, or Barhepani without some gripping tale or other to tell. At night you will be regaled by the sounds of alarm calls as chital (spotted deer) warn all creatures of the night that a tiger is about. And, if you can tolerate the heat of summer (when the orchids are in bloom), your chances of seeing tigers and elephants around waterholes will increase dramatically.No one who visits Orissa should miss Gahirmata, a coastal sanctuary that plays host to millions of olive ridley turtles that come ashore to nest each year. Watching them transports you to pre-historic times, when nature truly ruled the world. Unfortunately all this is threatened today by a huge port being planned at Dhamra, in the heart of turtle habitat.Together with the mangrove habitat of the Bhitarkanika National Park, these marine areas are crucial to the ecological health of the Bay of Bengal. They also help support lakhs of fisher folk, whose families depend on the productivity of the oceans. All of Orissa‚s 489 km coastline was as well protected, but deforestation has taken a deadly toll. Ironically, as though in retaliation, nature now responds by sending down ferocious killer cyclones. Perhaps one of the best-known wildlife destinations in Orissa is the Nandankanan (‚ËœGarden of the Gods‚) Biological Park. Situated on the outskirts of Bhubaneshwar it is easily accessible and is a terrific place to go birding. Unfortunately because of its penchant for breeding tigers it fell into disrepute some years ago when a series of tiger deaths drew the world‚s attention to the poor conditions in which captive wild animals were kept. The adjacent Chandka Elephant Reserve, however, provides a truly spectacular escape from city life. It is the only wildlife preserve of its kind in India, where you could expect to see 100 or so free ranging elephants, wild dogs, sambar deer and sloth bears, ‚ all within spitting distance of Bhubaneshwar‚s urban sprawl! For those who love trekking, the forested, 25 km-long Satkosia Gorge, located in the 745 sq km eponymous sanctuary along Orissa‚s famous Mahanadi River will provide unforgettable experiences. With luck you might see gharials here. Orissa is an impossibly rich wildlife state and for those seeking to escape the usual tourist spots, there are wildernesses like the Kuldiha, Ambapani, Kotagad, Baisipalli and Hadgarh sanctuaries, each unique and scenic in its own right. The Hadgarh forest in the district of Keonjhar is a quick 20 km drive from Bhadrak along National Highway 5. The dam reservoir presents a picturesque setting and with luck you might come across a leopard, or an elephant or two. Arrive at the 400 sq km Kotagad forest in Kandhamal and you might just be greeted by a tiger, gaur or elephant! I love Orissa. I love its people, its wildlife, its weather and its laid back attitude. The tourism brochures have got it right this time ‚ Orissa is the soul of India.(Bittu Sahgal is the editor of Sanctuary magazine)