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Hampi – testimony to a golden age

One of the 40 Unesco recognised World Heritage sites in the country, Hampi is evocative of the pomp and glory of the Hindu kingdoms of the pre-Mughal era which has brought visitors from across the seas to marvel and write about it A designated Unesco World Heritage Site, Hampi (pop.3,300) — sited in the southern state of Karnataka — is fast emerging as a popular heritage and leisure tourism destination. The Hampi ruins are evocative of the pomp and glory of the Hindu kingdoms of the pre-Mughal era which brought visitors (most famously Nobel laureate and author V.S. Naipaul) from across the seas to marvel and write about them. Recently five adventurers and travel writers re-explored the exotic ruins, sited on the banks of the tranquil River Tungabhadra. Perhaps, the flowing river which provided unlimited fresh water in this rocky terrain prompted Vijaynagara kingdom rulers to choose this location to establish their capital. Set amidst massive boulders and craggy hills, the ruins sprawl over an area of 26 sq. km and are among the 40 Unesco recognised World Heritage sites in the country. Hampi was the capital of the ancient Vijayanagara Empire which controlled the Deccan Plateau for over 200 years from 1336-1565 AD, and reached its zenith during the reign of Krishnadevaraya, its most famous emperor. Following the death of Krishnadevaraya in 1529, the neighbouring Muslim Bahamani rulers coalesced and attacked Hampi. The invading armies ran amok in the town, destroying its beautiful temples and monuments and left the once grand city in ruins. Thus far the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) has identified and restored 57 major monuments in Hampi and has installed signboards and information plates to highlight their significance. Easy to read, digitally printed maps have also been placed in strategic locations amidst the ruins to help tourists find their way to monuments of their choice. ASI has also trained and accredited several multi-lingual guides for the convenience of tourists. Their fees vary from Rs.50 an hour to Rs. 1,000 per day, depending on the size of the group and monuments covered. For those who would rather wander about the ruins on their own, enterprising businessmen have started renting bicycles (Rs.100-150 per day) and motorbikes (Rs.250-300 per day). Autorickshaws driven by self-styled local guides are also an option. Day 1 — Drive to Hampi The 355 km journey from Bengaluru to Hampi situated in the Vijayanagara district (formerly in the Ballari district) of Karnataka began on October 12 at 8.15 p.m. The first 25 km out of the garden city was a tortuous jostle through narrow traffic-clogged streets. The next leg, a stretch of about 200 km on the National Highway-4, upto the famous fort-city of Chitradurga was fast and smooth thanks to the toll highway built at a cost of Rs.457 crore under the Central government’s Golden Quadrilateral project. The remaining 120 km stretch on National Highway-13 which links Hampi via Hospet with Chitradurga was also smooth and we reached Hampi at 4 a.m. Day

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