Richly endowed with snowy peaks, green valleys, misty woods, azure lakes and flower-filled meadows, the tiny state of Himachal Pradesh is a traveler’s paradise
Riding high in the mighty Himalayas, comprising the world’s tallest mountains, the tiny state of Himachal Pradesh (pop. 6.8 million) is richly endowed with spectacular, scenic landscapes. This is a traveller’s paradise gifted with snowy peaks, deep gorges, green valleys, misty woods, turquoise blue rivers, azure lakes and flower-filled meadows. It is also a large landmass (55,673 sq.km) of contrasts: the picturesque valleys of Kullu and Kangra are a melange of colors, while the barren terrain of Lahaul and Spiti offers stark lunar landscapes.
Despite being one of India’s most literate states, the majority of Himachalis lead simple, pastoral lives, tending apple orchards, fields and flocks while keeping their rich art, culture and traditions alive in a succession of fairs and festivals, replete with music, song and dance. For visitors the state offers salubrious locales for rest and recreation and opportunities for trekking, mountaineering, fishing, river-rafting, skiing and paragliding.
Himachal is a hydel powerhouse with its many dams harnessing fast-flowing rivers to generate electricity. The state exports electricity to high productivity farmers in Punjab and Haryana and to industries across the northern plains. This is possible because it is the least urbanised state in India — its urban population accounting for less than 10 percent of the total. It has only 55 towns, of which only the capital, Shimla, has a population exceeding 80,000.
Shimla
Sited in the lower ranges of the Himalayan mountains and surrounded by dense pine, deodar, oak and rhododendron forests, Shimla (7,238 ft. above mean sea level) is the capital of Himachal Pradesh. This charming hill resort town with its well-developed infrastructure, easy accessibility and numerous attractions, is one of India’s most popular summer holiday destinations offering a host of splendid colonial edifices, quaint cottages, hiking trails and exhilarating walks. In winter (November-February), the temperature can drop below freezing point but the summer months (April-July) are cool and pleasant.
Shimla is justly famous for its landmarks of tourist interest. Among them: The Ridge — a large open space in the heart of town; Lakkar Bazar situated just off the Ridge and well known for its woodcraft and souvenirs; Jakhoo Hill (8,054 ft) is the town’s highest point, with commanding views of the valleys below. The hill crowned with a Hanuman temple and interspersed with several meandering paths and walkways, is ideal for trekking.
Christ Church and St. Michael’s Cathedral, located just off the Mall is the second oldest church in north India, adorned with fine stained glass of cruciform design. The State Museum houses an impressive collection of archaeological artefacts, carvings, paintings and sculptures drawn from Himachal Pradesh’s rich heritage. Also worth a visit is the Indian Institute of Advanced Study, housed in a magnificent English renaissance structure and formerly the residence of the British viceroy Lord Dufferin.
Excursions. There are several points of interest on the outskirts of Shimla, accessible for weekend and day excursions. Not to be missed are: Wildflower Hall (14 km) with its mountain flowers and magnificent views; Kufri (21 km by Road along with an aerial distance of 11 km), notable for its wide ski slopes, ideal for amateurs as well as advanced skiers. Prospect Hill and Kamna Devi temple (6 km) offer impressive views.
Naldehra (22 km) is a popular and lively destination. Sited at an altitude of 6,706 ft, it boasts the oldest nine-hole golf course in the country. Lord Curzon was so enchanted with this course that he gave his daughter, Alexandra, Naldehra as her second name. It is home to several luxury resorts set in an idyllic panorama of great natural beauty. The Nal temple situated here gives the town its name.
Chail (44 km) was once the summer capital of the Maharaja of Patiala and hosts the highest cricket ground in the world. The verdant forests around Chail are alive with exotic species of birds and deer. Tattapani (51 km) is visited for its hot sulphur springs and their therapeutic properties. Narkanda (69 km), situated at a height of 8,100 ft is a favourite ski resort.
Accommodation. Top-end: The Oberoi Cecil, Shimla (Rs. 21,000 per night), Radisson Jass Shimla (Rs.13,000), The Cedar Grand (Rs.8,745); Mid-range: Hotel Woodville Palace Shimla (Rs.4,242), Golden Fern Resorts (Rs.3,500), 8fold by LaRiSa, Shimla (Rs.3,397); Budget: Kamna hill resorts (Rs.2,976), Shimla British Resort (Rs.2,700), Nice view BNB (Rs.1,347).
Dalhousie
Named after a British governor general of the 19th century, this gracious hill station (area 13 sq. km) scattered across five hills is replete with old world charm. Situated on the outer slopes of the Dhauladhar range in western Himachal, Dalhousie has a bracing climate and awesome Himalayan vistas. Surrounded by wooded slopes with a profusion of pine, deodar, oak and rhododendron trees, Dalhousie offers colonial charm, evident in its Victorian architecture, and historic churches. It also offers panoramic views of the River Ravi which shines like a long silver line twisting and turning as it weaves its way into the plains.
While in Dalhouse visit its several ancient churches, especially St. Andrew’s and St. Patrick’s at Balun (a former British cantonment) and St. Francis at Subhash Chowk.Other sites of interest include Panchpula, a picturesque spot where a stream feeds a series of pools around a monument constructed to commemorate freedom fighter Sardar Ajit Singh.
Excursions. A favourite family get-away is the Kalatop Wildlife Sanctuary (10 km), abounding with several species of exotic wildlife like the ghoral or barking deer, kalij and chir, and the Himalayan black bear. Khajjiar (27 km) is an enchanting saucer-shaped grassy meadow, 1.5 km long and 1 km wide, surrounded by dense deodar forests, with a lake in the middle. Trekking and hiking to Satdhara and Jagadri Ghat are popular weekend pursuits.
Accommodation. Top-end: Presidium Sarovar Premiere Dalhousie (Rs.12,036 per night), Fortune Park, Dalhousie – Member ITC hotels’ group (Rs.10,500), Brij Villa, Dalhousie, A Colonial Luxury Retreat (Rs.7,400); Mid-range: Grand View Hotel (Rs.4,858), Beyond Stay Lall Ji Tourist Resort Dalhousie (Rs.4,456), Dalhousie Hill Resorts (Rs.3,779); Budget: The Seasons Dalhousie (Rs.2,47), Hotel Dalhousie Palace (Rs.1,613), Bahar Guest House (Rs.943)
Dharamsala
Sited on a spur of the Dhauladhar range amidst magnificent deodar and pine forests and tea gardens, is this administrative capital of Kangra district. Since 1960, when it was transformed into the temporary headquarters of the Dalai Lama after he fled the Chinese occupation of Tibet, Dharamsala has been known as Little Lhasa. Lower Dharmsala is the civic and business area with the courts and the Kotwali Bazar, while upper Dharamsala includes interesting places like McLeod Ganj and Forsyth Ganj which retain a British flavour.
Inevitably Dharamsala hosts a large Tibetan community and quasi-religious places of interest including Bhagsunathi, an exotic spot with an old temple, a fresh water spring and a waterfall; the Chinmaya Tapovana, an ashram complex set up by Swami Chinmayananada and Dal Lake, surrounded by pine forests; Dharamkot, offering a sweeping view of the Kangra Valley.
The Kangra Art Museum, situated in Kotwali Bazaar is a treasure trove of the valley’s arts and crafts including Kangra’s famous miniature paintings. Also worth a visit is Kunal Pathri with its rock-cut temple dedicated to a local goddess; McLeod Ganj for its Tibetan institutions and the Buddha temple located opposite the abode of his holiness, the Dalai Lama; and the Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts (TIPA) which showcases a number of musical, dance and theatrical traditions of Tibet.
For those with aches, pains, maladies and morbidity, The Tibetan Medical and Astro Institute which includes a hospital with an outpatient clinic, medical and astrological colleges is an attraction. The institute is engaged in clinical research on traditional Tibetan curatives.
Excursions. From Dharamsala there are several interesting excursion options within a few hours of travel. Among them Chamunda Devi (16 km), an ancient temple thronged by thousands of pilgrims from all over the state; Triund (17 km) at the foot of the Dhauladhar range, with breathtaking views of snowy peaks and the valleys below. Another must-see is Kangra (18 km) located at the confluence of the Neber and Majhi rivers, famous for its Brajeshwari temple.
Accommodation. Top-end: Norbu The Montanna, Dharamshala (Rs.21,390 per night), Norbu The Montanna, Dharamshala – IHCL SeleQtionsOpens in new window (Rs.17,900), Mandara Tree Villa (Rs.9,645); Mid-range: Atman, Dharamshala (Rs.5,488), Jujurana Resort & Spa (Rs.5,051), Indraprastha Spa Resort (Rs.4,362), Budget: Happy Homestay by In Vogue (Rs.1,363), Hotel Holiday Hill (Rs.1,141), Highland Village Resort By L’âge Voyage (Rs.1,056)
Manali
One of the tourism hotspots of Himachal Pradesh, this quaint hill town on the banks of the river Beas is the base point for mountaineering and trekking expeditions in the Kullu valley’s lofty mountains and deep boulder strewn gorges with endless fields of wildflowers, picturesque hamlets and fruit laden orchards.
Within Manali stroll around the Brighu Lake and the Hadimba Devi Temple. The latter was built in 1553 and boasts a superbly crafted four-tiered pagoda roof with an exquisitely carved doorway. The Manu Temple and Vashisth are well known for hot springs and old temples.
Excursions. Trekking, sporting and mountaineering facilities are available for outdoor enthusiasts. Solang Valley (14 km) offers ski slopes and picnic spots. Towards Rohtang Pass, on the road to Keylong, the headquarters of the Lahaul and Spiti district of Himachal Pradesh, is Nehru Kund (6 km), a clear water spring named after the late Jawaharlal Nehru. Also on this route is Kothi (12 km), a serene little village with a thrilling view of the deep gorge through which the river Beas races swiftly. The Rahalla Falls (16 km) cascade down from an altitude of 8,250 ft and the Rohtang Pass at a height of 13,134 ft is the crucial link to the old trade route and is still the gateway to trans Himalayan Lahaul.
Accommodation. Top-end: Ambassador Resorts (Rs.2,850-7,250); De Vivendi Resorts (Rs.2,516-6,322); Banons Resorts (Rs.1,800-8,258); Holiday Inn Manali (Rs.3,650-4,250); Mid-range: John Banons Hotel (Rs.1,200-1,800); Hadimba Cottages (Rs.973-6,490); Budget: Hotel Grand View (Rs.300-750).
Kullu
Kullu (4,026 ft) was earlier known as Kulanthapitha — the end of the habitable world. Beyond, rise the forbidding heights of the Greater Himalayas, and by the banks of the frothing River Beas is the fabled Silver Valley. Kullu got its first motorable road only after independence. The long centuries of seclusion have allowed the region to retain a considerable measure of its traditional charm. Kullu is at the centre of an intricate web of valleys — each of which is a visual delight and seems more beautiful than the other.
Excursions. There are several interesting excursions ex Kullu. Head for: Bajaura (15 km) famous for its orchards and the Basheshwar Mahadev temple; Katrain (20 km) known for bee keeping and great for trout fishing and Naggar (25 km), reputed for its numerous temples and the Naggar Castle, now converted into a hotel which also houses the Roerich Museum. Manikaran (45 km) is a pilgrimage centre for Hindus and Sikhs. Banjar (68 km) is an excellent spot for trout fishing; Mandi (70 km) is a site of great archaeological interest due to its ancient temples; Rewalsar (94 km) is sacred to Hindus, Buddhists and Sikhs. It has a natural lake with floating islands.
Accommodation. Kullu offers mostly mid-range and budget stays Mid-range/budget: Echor Palm Bliss Riverside Resort & Spa Kasol (Rs.4,603 per night), Hotel Kullu Valley (Rs.2,100), Ritu Regency (Rs.2,029)
Adventure sports
The Atal Bihari Vajpayee Institute of Mountaineering and Allied Sports in Manali conducts training courses in basic and advanced hiking, trekking, mountaineering, skiing and water sports. Hostel facilities and trekking equipment are available.
The Kullu valley offers ample opportunities for trout fishing in the river Beas and its larger tributaries. Larji, Banjar, Garsa and Kasol are popular places with anglers. Some of the best soft, medium and hard term trekking is available in the valley.
Palampur
Situated 3.5 km from Dharamsala at an altitude of 4,121 ft is the pleasant little town of Palampur. Surrounded by verdant tea gardens, and numerous streams and brooks crisscrossing its landscape, Palampur offers beautiful vistas of snow-capped peaks.
A must-see monument here is the Church of St. John in the Wilderness. Located at a height of 6,600 ft, this attractive colonial church is surrounded by poinsettias and has several memorial tablets of the British. The Temple of Bundla Mata is another attraction.
Excursions. One of the most popular excursions from Palampur is to Neughal Khud, a 305 m wide chasm, through which the Bundla stream gushes. Nearby is the charming village of Andretta (13 km) where Mrs. Norah Richards, a pioneer of rural theatre in India and an ardent disciple of Mahatma Gandhi lived.
Accommodation. Top-End: Infinity Bungalow (Rs.10,220 per night), Lamrin Norwood Green Palampur (RS.8,164), Fortune Park, Palampur (Rs.6,213); Mid-range: Himachal Heritage Village (Rs.4,005), Aotel by Clarks Inn Palampur (Rs.3,203), The Bliss Palampur (Rs.3,086); Budget: The Solitude Camp (Rs.2,023), Hotel Yamini (Rs.1,911), Bagora Heights (Rs.1,118).
