A desire to check out whether the God’s own country hype which attracted 15 million tourists last year is warranted, prompted a short investigative tour of the better northern half of the state Within a continent-sized nation which despite its rich heritage of ancient cultural monuments and natural attractions draws a mere 7.24 million foreign tourists annually (cf. China 30 million), the southern littoral state of Kerala — heavily promoted as ‘God’s own country’ — is a rare success story. Last year this modestly populated (34 million) state attracted a massive inflow of 15 million tourists including 4.47 lakh from abroad to savour its unique combination of beaches, backwaters, game sanctuaries, ayurveda, meditation and yoga. Though overseas, Kerala has projected itself as an exotic holiday destination offering sun, sand and ayurveda, in India the state has a dubious reputation as a bastion of communism, a thousand trade unions and nit-picking bureaucrats who have driven out the best human resources and capital from the state, creating an industrial wasteland. The desire to check out if the God’s own country hype — ironic for a state which has been ruled by communist governments for decades — is warranted, prompted an investigative, short holiday tour of north Kerala, reportedly the better half of the state. In the high-pressure scribe’s profession in which deadlines are omnipresent, lengthy holidays are impossible. Therefore I planned a tightly-packed six nights-seven day tour package (entirely self-financed) which would combine sight-seeing (to get a feel of the much-hyped Kerala experience) with rest and recreation. December 1 (Bengaluru-Cochin) The starting point of the tour was Cochin aka Kochi which can be conveniently accessed from Bengaluru by train. Indian Railways Ernakulam Inter City Superfast Express departing at 6 a.m. daily from Bengaluru (city and cantonment stations) offers a convenient and painless passage to Cochin arriving at 5 p.m. December 2 (Cochin-Allepey) Following a tepid breakfast in Cochin at the Avenue Regent (Best Western) Hotel, the seven-day tour of Kerala began with a two-hour drive to Allepey aka Allappuzha, a scenic backwater town (pop. 240,990) which is the most-preferred jump-off point for Kerala’s famous backwater cruises. Fully furbished houseboats can be hired on a day or night basis to cruise the tranquil backwaters of Alleppey. Though one could strike a bilateral deal with any of the several houseboat operators located on the main jetty, it’s best to book your houseboat beforehand through a travel agent who will bargain hard on your behalf. Around noon we boarded a fully equipped two-bedroom houseboat of Rainbow Cruises. Twenty-25 m long, meticulously crafted from huge jackwood planks without use of nails, the houseboats or kettvalloms offer open deck lounges, roomy bedrooms with attached baths and chemically treated toilets, fans/ air conditioning and a well-equipped kitchen. On board everything is eco-friendly starting from the solar powered energy system to coir decor and cane furniture. The courteous crew comprising the captain, chef and two skilled oarsmen are on service round the clock. It’s advisable to let the chef…
