Battle-scarred fortresses, grand palaces, golden sand dunes, colourful culture and friendly folk combine to make this desert state a must-visit destination The erstwhile royal state of Rajasthan is visited by millions of Indian and foreign tourists every year — 4.75 million Indian and foreign tourists visited Rajasthan (pop. 69 million) in 2017. Of them 1.61 million were foreign tourists from around the world. Not as much for the intrinsic charm of this backward desert state as for the exotic, world famous ‘golden triangle’ package — Delhi-Agra-Jaipur-Delhi — offered by all tour operators. Its battle-scarred fortresses, grand palaces, golden sand dunes, colourful culture and friendly folk make it a must-visit destination of every traveller. The state’s original inhabitants were Rajputs — a warrior clan that ruled over this part of India for more than 1,000 years, adhering to a code of chivalry and honour akin to that of medieval European knights. The Rajputs’ bravery and code of honour were unparalleled, but ruled as they were by highly egoistic princes they could never unite against common enemies. Hence it was easy for the Delhi-based Mogul emperors to impose their rule over the tiny kingdoms of Rajasthan. During British rule, in the early 20th century most Rajput princes signed treaties which allowed them to continue to rule independent states, each with its own prince or maharaja, subject to certain political and economic constraints. These easy alliances sounded the death knell of the traditional chivalry and honour of Rajput princes who slid into decadent lifestyles of indulgence and extravagance. In the first half of the 20th century Rajput royals spent much of their time travelling the world with their harems, playing polo, horse racing and occupying entire floors in the most expensive hotels in Europe and the US. After independence, the ruling Congress party signed agreements with the nominally independent princely states of Rajasthan to secure their accession to the Indian Union. Rulers were allowed to keep their titles, property holdings and were paid annual stipends (privy purses) commensurate with their status. However the privy purses were abolished by prime minister Indira Gandhi in 1968. As a consequence, several princes transformed into hoteliers by converting their dynastic palaces into luxury hotels which are thronged by foreign tourists through the year. Jaipur Popularly known as the pink City, after the vibrant colour of buildings in the old quarter, Jaipur is named after its most famous son — warrior-astronomer-king Jai Singh II who built the city in 1727. Designed according to civic construction principles of the shilpa shastra, the city is laid out in rectangular blocks within a surrounding wall and five majestic gates. Inevitably, it has grown out of the confines of the old wall and has transformed into one of the most chaotic and polluted cities of Rajasthan. But its old world charm is ubiquitous. One can still see Rajputs in traditional regalia, sporting bright turbans and swashbuckling moustaches on every street corner. The Hawa Mahal or Palace of Winds built by Maharaja Sawaj…
