Indonesia’s cultural capital, Yogyakarta hosts the ancient and magnificent Borobudur and Prambanan temples and the island of Bali is famous for its scenic beaches, rice terraces and mountains
Anil thakore

17,508 — that’s the number of islands within the boundaries of the Republic of Indonesia. The largest country in Southeast Asia and the fourth most populous nation (250 million) worldwide, Indonesia is the world’s largest archipelagic nation with its over 17,000 islands stretching across the equator between the Indian and Pacific oceans. This vast country’s diverse geography, featuring volcanic mountains, tropical rainforests, coral reefs, and lush rice terraces, offers travelers an extraordinary mix of natural beauty and biodiversity.

The name ‘Indonesia’ has its roots in two Greek words: Indos meaning Indian and nesos which means islands. Of the 17,508 islands only 600 are inhabited. Six main islands — Java, Sumatra, Bali, Kalimantan aka Borneo, Sulawesi aka Celebes and Irian Jaya aka Papua — and 30 smaller archipelagos host the majority of the country’s population.

Indonesia’s history goes back to the fossil era of the Java Man. Fossils discovered by Dr. Eugene Dubois in 1809 near Trinil village in East Java are estimated to be about 500,000 years old. This discovery indicates that the region has been inhabited for several millennia. Major migration patterns from China and Tonkin to the Indonesian archipelago have been traced as far back as 3,000-500 BC. These migrations introduced new Stone, Bronze and Iron Age cultures as well as the Austronesian language into the archipelago.

Circa100 AD Indonesia came under the influence of the mighty Hindu kingdoms of south India and later of the powerful Srivijaya Buddhist kingdom during the seventh century. The 13th century witnessed the rise of the powerful Majapahit Hindu empire in East Java, which united the whole of what is latter-day Indonesia and parts of the Malay peninsula for over two centuries. The prosperity of the archipelago attracted plundering Mongol armies led by Kublai Khan in 1293 AD, but he was comprehensively defeated and driven back. Later, in the 14th century visiting Arab traders and merchants laid the foundations for the gradual spread of Islam in Indonesia. However, it took until the end of the 16th century for Islam to replace Hinduism and Buddhism as the dominant religion of the archipelago. In the early 17th century, the country was colonised by the Dutch and later the British.

After over three centuries of colonial rule, interrupted by Japanese occupation during World War II, Indonesia declared independence in 1945, led by nationalist leaders Sukarno and Mohammad Hatta. President Suharto ruled Indonesia for decades, stimulating economic development while suppressing political opposition. In 1965, an army revolt amid an economic crisis forced his resignation, culminating in a new democratic era. Since the 1990s, Indonesia has held regular elections and seen peaceful transfers of power, transforming into the world’s third-largest democracy. The incumbent President is Prabowo Subianto.

Since Indonesia was ruled by several Hindu kingdoms of south India and later the powerful Srivijaya Buddhist empire, it’s unsurprising that the nation hosts several grand temples built by these Hindu/Buddhist kingdoms. Our group of 13 travellers chose to explore the country’s cultural capital of Yogyakarta in Java and the island of Bali, famous for its beaches and mountains.

 

Yogyakarta

Sited on the northern tip of Java, Yogyakarta (pop.3.5 million) is the cultural capital of Indonesia and the gateway to Borobudur and Prambanan, two UNESCO World Heritage-listed temples. The newly constructed (2020) Yogyakarta International Airport is modern and efficient, and well-connected to the city through train, bus and taxi services.

Yogyakarta, popularly known as Jogja, is a well-ordered city with wide roads, pedestrian-friendly sidewalks, lush gardens and disciplined traffic. Deep cultural links with Hinduism and Buddhism are visible everywhere, although the vast majority of the population is Muslim. It is one of the few regions in Indonesia still governed by a Sultan. Therefore, a visit to the Sultan Palace was in order. Built in 1755 by Sultan Hamengkubuwono I, it serves as a royal residence and a hub for Javanese art, culture, and tradition. It features beautifully laid out gardens and a historical museum of Javanese culture. Of special interest are Buddhist prayers and chants conducted in the open-air halls. A fascinating sight, a Buddhist guru-shishya session in an Islamic Sultan’s palace!

The harmony of religions in Indonesia is extraordinary.  An estimated 87 percent of the population is Islamic, 10 percent Christian, 1.7 percent Hindu and 0.8 percent Buddhist. Yet, Borobudur, the largest and most magnificent Buddhist temple in the world, and Prambanan, the second largest Hindu temple complex worldwide is in Yogyakarta.

 

Borobudur

Built in 9 CE during the reign of the Sailendra dynasty, this UNESCO World Heritage site is a stunning example of ancient Indian temple architecture. It is designed on the Buddhist mandala concept of the Nalanda school, described as the Architecture of Enlightenment and attributed to the Buddhist monk Gurudharma. From the 14th-19th century, this majestic monument was buried under mounds of sand and dense forests and thus survived the ravages of war and religious desecration. It was discovered in 1814 by a Dutch explorer H.C. Cornelius.

Set against a backdrop of lush green hills and volcanoes, the Borobudur complex consists of nine stacked platforms topped by a central dome, adorned with over 2,600 relief panels and 504 Buddha statues. Its walls display intricate bas-reliefs that narrate the life of the Buddha, Jataka tales (Buddhist morality stories), and scenes from daily life in ancient Java. As we ascended the temple’s three levels, we passed hundreds of exquisitely carved panels and seated Buddhas, culminating at the summit with a massive Central stupa surrounded by 72 smaller perforated stupas, each containing a meditating Buddha statue. The artistry is monumental and intimate, combining grand structural design with detailed craftsmanship. Borobudur’s harmony of geometry, symbolism, and storytelling is certain to leave a lasting impression on all who visit. Currently Borobudur is a living temple maintained by Buddhist monks.

 

Prambanan

Sited 17 km from the city centre, the Prambanan Temples were also built in the 9th century by the Sanjaya dynasty on the Hindu temple architectural design of vastu shastra with typically high spires and dedicated to the Trimurti — Brahma (the God of Creation), Vishnu (the God of Preservation) and Shiva (the God of Destruction). Set amid meticulously landscaped gardens, this UNESCO World Heritage site hosted 240 temples; the ruins of many are still visible. The main structures of some temples have been competently restored, showcasing exquisite stone carvings and towering spires that echo classical Indian temple architecture blended with Javanese influence.

The temples have rich mythology carved into their walls. Detailed reliefs depict the epic Ramayana, telling the story of Prince Rama and Sita in a captivating narrative that comes to life during famous Ramayana Ballet performances held at the open-air theatre near the complex. As the sun sets behind the silhouette of Prambanan’s spires, the combination of ancient architecture, mythology, and dramatic lighting creates an unforgettable experience steeped in spirituality, history, and art.

 

Shopping

Yogyakarta is widely recognised as Indonesia’s epicentre of batik printing and textile design. Therefore, a visit to one of the many Batik textile and handicrafts shops in the city selling batik paintings, scarves, shawls and other mementoes is highly recommended. Also visit Malioboro Street, a well-planned shopping area with a mix of traditional textiles, handicrafts and fashion stores and shopping malls.

A wide range of residential accommodation including high range and budget stays are available. High-end: Hotel Tentrem Yogyakarta (Rs.10,300 per night), Royal Ambarrukmo Yogyakarta (Rs.9,9119), Meliá Purosani Yogyakarta (Rs.7,076); Mid-range: Phoenix Hotel (Rs.5,840), The Manohara Hotel (Rs.4,485), Grand Rohan Jogja (Rs.2,850); Budget: Tirta Sanita Hotel & Convention (Rs.1,046), RedDoorz Syariah @ Omahe (Rs.887), Garser Bantul (Rs.728).

 

Bali

A 40-minute flight from Jogja takes you to the island of Bali (pop:4.4 million), the tourism magnet of Indonesia which attracts over 4 million tourists a year. Bali’s population is predominantly Hindu, and the island is renowned for its religious festivals, particularly for its unique new year festival, which is observed as a day of total silence by all local inhabitants. To Indian tourists escaping from concrete jungles, Bali offers scenic beaches and breathtaking vistas of vast expanses of terraced rice fields dissecting soothing green landscapes. However, please be warned that road traffic is chaotic and congested. 

Bali’s beaches are among the most iconic and diverse in Southeast Asia. On the southern coast, Kuta, Seminyak, Jimbaran and Legian are reputed for their golden sands, lively surf culture, and vibrant nightlife, making them favorites for social travelers and surfers. For a more upscale and serene experience, Nusa Dua offers pristine white beaches, luxury resorts, and calm waters ideal for families and couples.

Beaches apart, a must-visit destination is the town of Ubud, nestled in the lush highlands of central Bali and the island’s spiritual and cultural heart. Surrounded by emerald rice terraces, forested ravines, and ancient temples, Ubud offers a rich tapestry of traditional Balinese life. The town is replete with artisan workshops, galleries, yoga studios, and cozy cafes. Highlights include the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, Tegallalang rice fields, Goa Gajah and Tirta Empul temples, the Ubud Royal Palace, Besakh Temple, revered by the Balinese as the ‘Mother Temple’ and the beautifully landscaped Tirta Ganga water palace with its lush garden and stone sculptures.

Also don’t miss the Uluwatu Temple, or Pura Luhur Uluwatu, one of Bali’s most revered sea temples, dramatically perched on the edge of a 70-meter-high limestone cliff overlooking the Indian Ocean. And make time to watch the spectacular Kecak dance staged at the temple, an extraordinary “acapella” performance of the Ramayana.

No sojourn in Bali is complete without checking out its shopping hubs, particularly in Seminyak, offering exquisite cotton and linen textiles and designer jewelry. Massage parlours at all price points offer relaxing spa experiences. Bali also offers opportunities for an array of adventure activities such as bungee jumping, water skiing, trekking, mountain biking etc.

Accommodation. Top-end: The Ritz-Carlton, Bali (Rs.33,193 per night), Grand Hyatt Bali (Rs.15,183), Hilton Bali Resort, (Rs.15,029); Mid-range: The Patra Bali Resort & Villas (Rs.6,012), Sagara Candidasa (Rs.5,050), Jimbaran Bay Beach Resort & Spa (Rs.4,114); Budget: Prasi Sunset Bungalows (Rs.1,409), Exotic View Cottage (Rs.1,248), Horizon Nusa Penida (Rs.453).

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