Jewels of the Northeast

A journey through these two northeastern states reveals a tapestry of ancient civilisations, spiritual depth, ecology diversity, and friendly, resilient communities

For many travellers, the northeastern states remain distant in geography and imagination. Until our visit last November, my knowledge of Assam and Meghalaya was similarly limited to evocative images of undulating tea gardens, dense forests and the one-horned rhinoceros. What followed over the next several days was a journey through an extraordinary region shaped by ancient civilisations, spiritual depth, ecology diversity and friendly, resilient communities.

Assam which means “unequalled” in Sanskrit, is a state of lush tea gardens, mighty rivers, and vibrant cultural traditions. Cradled in the River Brahmaputra valley, the state hosts the Kaziranga National Park, a Unesco World Heritage Site famous for its one-horned rhinoceros and rich biodiversity; revered Kamakhya Temple, Guwahati and picturesque Majuli river island.

The earliest recorded kingdom of this region was Kamarupa (350–1140 CE), founded by Pushyavarman. Its capital was present-day Guwahati, then known as Pragjyotishpura. The Varman dynasty, followers of the Hindu faith, were the earliest rulers of Kamarupa, governing the kingdom for nearly three centuries. At its zenith, Kamarupa encompassed the entire Brahmaputra Valley and parts of North Bengal, Bhutan, northern Bangladesh, present-day West Bengal, Bihar, and Sylhet — comparable in scale to the mighty Mughal Empire at its peak.

The Varmans were succeeded by the Haruppeshvara and Durjaya dynasties. However, in the absence of historical records, much of their story survives only through archaeological remains, particularly the ruins of Madan Kamdev near Dewangiri hillock. Scattered across the site are striking sculptures that testify to the artistic brilliance and cultural sophistication of these early rulers.

In 1228, Kamarupa was conquered by the Ahom leader Sukaphaa. For nearly six centuries, the Ahoms governed much of Northeast India. Originally Tai-speaking Buddhists from Yunnan in present-day China, they established their capital at Charaideo near Jorhat and gradually built a powerful kingdom centred in the Sibsagar (aka Sivasagar) region. Through strategic alliances and assimilation with local tribes, they introduced wet-land rice cultivation, an organised labour system, a structured bureaucracy known as the Patra system, and built impressive infrastructure including forts, roads, and reservoirs. Their detailed chronicles, known as buranjis, provide invaluable historical data.

Guwahati

From Guwahati (pop.1.2 million) — the gateway to the ‘Seven Sisters’ (Arunachal Pradesh, Manipur, Mizoram, Meghalaya, Tripura, Nagaland, and Assam) of the North-East and 25 km from the state capital Dispur — we began an immersive exploration of Assam’s historical grandeur, environmental diversity and live cultural traditions before continuing onward to Meghalaya. The Lokpriya Gopinath Bordoloi International Airport named after Assam’s first Chief Minister, is the principal entry point not only into Assam but to the northeastern region.

Our first stop in Guwahati was the Kamakhya Temple, the most celebrated shrine in Assam, to seek the blessings of Goddess Sati (Lord Shiva’s wife). Believed to have been built in prehistoric times, it is one of 51 sacred shrines in Hinduism spread across the Indian subcontinent drawing millions of devotees every year. The air was thick with incense and chants, and the spiritual energy of the Nilachal Hill left an indelible impression on us. Another must-visit landmark in Guwahati is the Assam State Museum, whose rich collection of sculptures, manuscripts, tribal artefacts, and historical exhibits offers a deeper understanding of the region’s cultural heritage.

Later, during an evening cruise on the mighty River Brahmaputra, we drifted past the picturesque Umananda Temple, perched on Peacock Island — the world’s smallest inhabited riverine island. The temple’s intricate carvings of Surya, Ganesha, Shiva, and the ten incarnations of Vishnu reflect Assam’s rich artistic heritage.

Hajo

Twenty-five km from Guwahati is Hajo, an archaeological and pilgrimage centre known as Pancha Tirtha, reflecting the presence of five revered multi-faith religious sites. The most prominent among them is the Hayagriva Madhava temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu and built in 1583 CE. This temple has special significance not only for Hindus but also for many Buddhists, some of whom believe it to be the place where the Buddha attained Nirvana.

Another noteworthy site is Poa Macca, an imposing mosque that draws thousands of Muslim devotees every year. The Kedareshwara temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, the Ganesha temple built in 1778 CE, and the Kamaleshwar and Kameshwar temples further enrich Hajo’s spiritual and architectural landscape. Together, these monuments beautifully reflect centuries of faith, harmony, and shared cultural legacy.

Accommodation. Arista by Ambition, Guwahati (Rs.8,000-10,00 per night)

Kaziranga National Park

The four-and-a-half-hour drive from Guwahati to Kaziranga on a four-lane, well-maintained highway winds through steep wooded hills, neatly gardened low-rise houses of wood and bamboo, and long stretches of serene countryside occasionally interrupted by modern townships.

Kaziranga National Park is a designated Unesco World Heritage Site spread across 430 sq. km of elephant-grass meadows, swampy lagoons, and dense forests. It hosts over 2,200 Indian one-horned rhinoceroses — majestic creatures instantly recognisable by their thick, armour-like skin plates — unique to the Indian subcontinent.

Our early-morning safari turned out to be extraordinary; in just a few hours we spotted 47 one-horned rhinos grazing, wallowing, or quietly moving through the grasslands. Herds of elephants, wild water buffalo, swamp deer, and a pair of Asian Openbill storks added to the spectacle. One of the most memorable sights was of egrets perched on the backs of rhinos — a perfect illustration of the delicate harmony that sustains this thriving ecosystem. Kaziranga is also recognised as an Important Bird Area by BirdLife International, drawing birdwatchers from around the world with its rich avian diversity.

A visit to the Kaziranga Orchid & Biodiversity Park provided a delightful cultural counterpoint to the safari. With over 600 orchid species on display, lively Bihu dance performances, and a pre-booked Assamese thali featuring 21 regional delicacies, the experience offered a flavourful glimpse into Assam’s rich artistic and culinary traditions.

For wildlife enthusiasts, Assam offers several other protected wildlife areas, including Manas National Park, Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary — known for its high density of rhinos — and Dibru-Saikhowa National Park, famed for its riverine wilderness and rich birdlife.

Accommodation: Niltava Resort (Rs.4,500-6,000 per night)

Majuli

The next morning, at the crack of dawn, we set out for Nimati Ghat near Jorhat — a drive of about two and a half hours — to board a ferry to cross the majestic River Brahmaputra to Majuli, the world’s largest riverine island.

Majuli is at the heart of Assam’s Vaishnavite culture. Remarkably untouched by modernisation, the island offers a serene, community-centred way of life. With strong matrilineal elements in its social fabric, negligible crime, and a deep respect for nature, Majuli feels timeless. Its fertile alluvial soil supports abundant crops, painting the landscape in lush shades of green, while traditional homes — crafted from bamboo and raised on stilts — stand resilient against the region’s frequent monsoon floods.

The island’s spiritual heritage thrives through its ancient satras (monasteries), including the renowned Kamalabari Satra. At Samaguri Satra, we witnessed the famed 650-year-old mask-making tradition, now in its 35th generation and guided by Padma Shri awardee Dr. Hemchandra Goswami. Equally memorable was meeting an elderly tribal artisan who demonstrated traditional pottery made from clay sourced nearly 30 feet below the earth — a craft shaped by centuries of local knowledge. Our visit concluded with a memorable feast of authentic rice-based Mising cuisine, deeply rooted in Assam’s riverine culture.

Yet beneath its tranquil beauty lies a growing ecological threat. Continuous river erosion has shrunk Majuli island from nearly 1,200 sq. km to about 540 sq. km, making the preservation of this fragile environmental and cultural treasure an urgent priority.

Shillong, Meghalaya

From the rolling hills and fertile plains of Assam, we drove towards Shillong (pop.520,000), the capital of Meghalaya, a four-hour drive from Guwahati. En route, we made a brief pitstop at the breathtaking Umiam Lake, popularly known as Barapani. This expansive man-made reservoir is cradled by green hills, offering a panoramic view. A walk through the adjoining Lum Nehru Park added to the charm, with landscaped gardens and quiet lakeside viewpoints ideal for appreciating the scenery. Boating and other water activities, including kayaking and water cycling, are offered at the nearby Umiam Water Sports Complex, a short drive from the park.

As we neared Shillong city, the tranquility of nature gave way to the city’s infamous traffic snarls, and we inched our way through the bustling streets to our hotel.

After a restful night, our tour began with a visit to the Ever Living Museum in Mawshbuit and Don Bosco Centre for Indigenous Cultures which provided a fascinating window into Meghalaya’s rich ethnic heritage. The thoughtfully curated exhibits — ranging from traditional attire and weaponry to musical instruments and household artefacts — brought the history of the state’s indigenous Khasi, Jaintia, and Garo communities alive. A visit to Ing Sad, the ancestral house of the royal family of Khyrim, deepened our appreciation of indigenous architectural tradition, with its distinctive design reflecting cultural symbolism and practical adaptation to the region’s climate.

A 62-km drive away is Nartiang, once the summer capital of the Jaintia kings. Scattered across the landscape are imposing monoliths, carved medallions, and evocative ruins of temples and dwellings. These silent stone sentinels stand as powerful reminders of a civilisation that flourished for centuries, revealing a sophisticated society rooted in ritual, governance, and artistry.

Blessed with a cool, temperate climate, Shillong attracted the British, who decreed it the capital of undivided Assam. The city’s colonial legacy lingers in its stately churches and heritage buildings, lending it an old-world charm.

Among the city’s tranquil retreats is Ward’s Lake, a favourite spot for leisurely boating and quiet reflection amid manicured gardens. We were delighted to spot cherry blossoms in bloom, their delicate hues adding to the lake’s serene beauty. A short drive away, Elephant Falls cascades gracefully in three streams, its rhythmic flow echoing through the surrounding forest. Finally, from Shillong Peak — rising about 6,500 ft above sea level — we were rewarded with a sweeping panorama of the bustling city framed by rolling hills and misty horizons.

Cherrapunji and Dawki

Cherrapunji aka Sohra, a 53-km drive from Shillong, is world famous for being the second wettest place on Planet Earth (first wettest being Mawsynram, about 15 km from Cherrapunji) with an average annual rainfall of over 11,000 mm (450 inches). Especially during the monsoon months, when mist-laden clouds roll across the plateau, numerous waterfalls come alive in this densely forested region. One of the highlights of our visit was crossing the Living Root  Bridge — a remarkable natural structure ingeniously woven over generations from the aerial roots of the ficus elastica, or rubber fig tree. The experience offered a close glimpse of the Khasi community’s remarkable harmony with nature. Nearby, the magnificent Nohkalikai Falls, India’s tallest plunge waterfall, roared in full glory, while the limestone formations inside Mawsmai Cave provided striking natural textures and unforgettable photo opportunities.

From Cherrapunji, a scenic drive of about four to five hours through winding hills and forested valleys brought us to Dawki, a small border town in Meghalaya best known for the crystal-clear waters of the River Umngot which is a natural boundary with Bangladesh. Popular for boating and its striking river views, Dawki was one of the most picturesque stops in the region. Our drive, however, proved slightly disappointing as ongoing construction had muddied the Umngot’s famed clear waters. Even so, catching a glimpse of neighbouring Bangladesh just across a narrow fence was a memorable moment.

Back in Shillong, lively music and dance at The Evening Club ended our day on high note.

Accommodation: Courtyard by Marriott (Rs.8,000-10,000 per night).

Travel Tips

Getting there. Guwahati is the most convenient entry point by air and rail.

Preparation. Comfortable footwear, raincoats and sun protection gear (sunglasses, hats) are essential.

Food. Fresh fish in Assam and meat-based cuisine in Meghalaya dominate, complemented by diverse vegetables and rice.

Best season. October to April

Guides. Local guides greatly enhance understanding of history, ecology and cultural traditions.