Madhya Pradesh (MP, pop. 88 million) is the country’s second-largest state by area (after Rajasthan), offering rich history, heritage, and natural splendour. Sprawling across plateaus, riverine valleys, and dense forests, MP presents an excellent mix of architectural grandeur and scenic vistas. From the majestic gorges of Marble Rocks in Bhedaghat to the tranquil expanses of the River Narmada to the tiger-inhabited wilds of Kanha, Bandhavgarh, and Pench national parks, MP is a living canvas of India’s diverse geographic landscapes, wildlife and architectural splendour.

Madhya Pradesh, which literally means ‘central province’, reflects its geographic position at the crossroads of Indian culture and civilization. The state hosts Unesco World Heritage Sites such as the stunning Khajuraho temples, ancient Buddhist monuments of Sanchi, and rock shelters of Bhimbetka. Its cities — Bhopal, Indore, Gwalior, and Ujjain — blend old-world charm with modern vibrancy, inviting travelers to experience majestic forts, sacred ghats, handloom traditions, and memorable cuisine.

In last month’s leisure and travel dispatch, I wrote about our (a group of like-minded citizens) travels to Bhopal, Sanchi, Pachmarhi, Jabalpur, and Kanha National Park. The concluding Part II details the second leg of our journey to Gwalior, Datia, Orchha and Khajuraho.

Gwalior

The historical city of Gwalior (pop. 1.1 million) seamlessly blends its imposing fort, grand palaces and classical music legacy with contemporary urban life, bustling bazaars and a distinctly old-world charm. The city traces its origins to the 8th century, when, according to a legend Rajput chief Suraj Sen Tomar founded it after being cured of leprosy by the sage Gwalipa, from whom Gwalior takes its name. Over the centuries, the city evolved from a strategic hilltop stronghold into a powerful princely state, shaped successively by the Tomar Rajputs, Mughals, Marathas and the Scindias.

Gwalior is most famous for its majestic eponymous fort built on Gopachal, a flat sandstone hill. The fort covers approximately 3 sq. km in area enclosed by outer walls, 35 ft high, which stretch 3.2 km all around. Suraj Sen Tomar started construction of the fort in 6th century CE with Raja Man Singh Tomar embellishing it to its present grandeur. Within these walls are several water tanks, six palaces, six temples, a mosque, and the campus of The Scindia School, ranked India’s #1 vintage all-boys boarding school in the EW India School Rankings 2025-26.

Of particular interest is the Raja Man Singh Palace with its exquisite external architecture of turquoise, yellow and green tiling, magnificent courtyards and several rooms, built to accommodate his eight wives and their families. Nearby is a museum that houses exquisite sculptures and carvings.

Teli-ka-Mandir (11th century CE), a Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva, occupies pride of place in Gwalior Fort. Built between the early 8th–9th century CE by oil merchants from southern India, during the reign of the Gurjara-Pratihara Mihira Bhoja, it’s unique because it showcases southern temple architecture. It suffered during numerous invasions but was restored by British archaeologists and the Scindia royal family in the 19th century.

Another archaeological wonder within the fort is the Sas-Bahu Temple. An outstanding example of Hindu temple architecture, it was built in 1096 by King Mahipala of the Kachchhapaghata dynasty. While the ‘Sas’ (wife of king Mahipala) temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu, the ‘Bahu’ (his daughter-in-law) temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. The temple walls depict the epic Ramayana through delicate carvings.

Gujari Mahal, sited at the foot of Gwalior fort, is uniquely designed with open courtyards and aqueducts. Constructed by Raja Man Singh Tomar for his queen Mrignayani, the palace now houses an archaeological museum with an outstanding collection of sculptures and artefacts, including the miniature statue of Salabhanjika (female figurine).

On descent from the fort, we encountered the gigantic rock-cut Jain Tirthankaras and temple caves, carved directly into the sandstone cliffs of Gopachal over a span of nearly eight centuries. Unparalleled in their number, scale and artistry, these awe-inspiring sculptures draw thousands of Jain pilgrims and visitors each year.

However, the highlight of our visit to Gwalior Fort was the son-et-lumière show. Brilliantly choreographed with commentary by Bollywood superstar Amitabh Bachchan, music by the Gundecha Brothers and compositions of legendary maestro Tansen, this is an experience that should be missed.

Other places of interest in Gwalior are the Tansen memorial, Jai Vilas Palace, Sun Temple, Gurudwara Data Bandi Chhod Sahib, Rani Laxmi Bai Samadhi Sthal and Sarod Ghar. In particular, the Sarod Ghar, established by legendary sarod player Ustad Amjad Ali Khan, is a must-visit. It houses an eclectic collection of old and contemporary musical instruments.

Accommodation. Tansen Hotel (Rs.4,500-6,000 per night). This is a no-frills hotel with clean and spacious rooms and attentive service.

Datia

Seventy-five km by road from Gwalior is Datia Palace, a magnificent seven-storeyed palace, built by Raja Bir Singh Deo (1605–1627) of the Bundela dynasty, solely to host a one-night visit of Mughal Emperor Jahangir, which was cancelled. Sited dramatically on a rocky outcrop overlooking the town, Datia Palace is made entirely of stone and brick, without use of iron or wood, and is considered one of the finest examples of Bundela architecture in central India.

Each level of the palace has a distinctly different design in art and ornamentation, progressing from austere lower floors to increasingly elaborate upper levels, and culminating in airy terraces and pavilions that offer sweeping views of the surrounding town and countryside. Nearby is the splendid Veer Singh Palace, home to the descendants of Bir Singh Deo.

The Dhubela Palace, 35 km from Datia, was built Raja Chhatrasal, the most famous of the Bundelas, who remained undefeated in 52 battles fought against the Mughals. The splendid Dhubela palace now houses a museum. Adjacent to the museum is Mastani Mahal, a palace that the Raja built for his daughter Mastani, now a pop culture icon through the Bollywood movie Baji Rao Mastani. The many chhatris (cenotaphs) that dot the surrounding landscape, set amid tranquil lakes and pastoral scenery, create an evocative panorama and serve as a lasting tribute to the artistic excellence, wealth and cultural refinement of the Bundela era.

Orchha

The next stop was Orchha, 35 km from Dhubela. Sited on the banks of the River Betwa, Orchha is a medieval town where grand palaces, soaring chhatris and quiet temples are frozen in history. It was founded by Rudra Pratap Singh Bundela (1501–1531), the first King of Orchha, who also built the majestic Fort of Orchha and Raja Mahal. The exquisite Chaturbuj Temple was commissioned by his Queen, Rani Ganesh Kunwar.

His successor, Raja Madhukar Shah, built the Jahangir Palace during his reign (1544–1591). This palace is a singularly grand specimen of Mughal architecture built by a Hindu ruler. Every evening, the palace hosts a spectacular light and sound show narrating the enthralling history of Orchha.

In keeping with the tradition of Raja Chhatrassaal, the Bundelas of Orchha also built large and magnificent chhatris along the banks of the River Betwa. These chhatris are well-maintained and situated within pristine gardens.

En route from Orchha to Khajuraho, stop at Raneh Falls. The crystal-clear Ken River discharges over 30 m of pure crystalline granite with varying shades of colours ranging from pink and red to grey, into a 5 m-long canyon.

Khajuraho

Founded by the Chandela chieftain, Nannuka, in the 9th century CE, Khajuraho is a serene heritage town famed for its exquisitely carved temples that celebrate art, spirituality and human emotion in stone. A Unesco World Heritage Site, it offers a rare blend of architectural brilliance, cultural depth and quiet small-town charm. The temples around Khajuraho were built during the period 885 CE and 1125 CE. The largest and most famous temple is Kandariya Mahadeva built during the reign of King Vidyadhara.

The Khajuraho temples are built in the Nagara-style architecture, depicting graceful sculptures of nayikas (Hindu mythological female protagonists) and deities representing core Hindu values of kama, artha, dharma, and moksa in various forms of meditation, spiritual teachings and relationships. Though widely renowned for its erotic iconography, only about 10 percent of the iconography in the Khajuraho temples is sexual.

From the 13th to the 18th century CE, various Muslim dynasties conquered this region and desecrated most of the temples. About 25 temples have survived the desecration. Over the centuries, vegetation and forests enveloped the region until, in 1830, local people guided the English explorer T.S. Burt to these temples. Thus, like Angkor Wat (Cambodia), Borobudur and Prambanan (Indonesia), Khajuraho was saved and restored.

Built largely of fine-grained sandstone and raised on high plinths, the temples follow a precise geometric plan, with soaring shikharas rising in perfect symmetry and harmony. The Western Group of Temples — anchored by the Kandariya Mahadeva, Lakshmana and Vishvanatha temples — forms the artistic and spiritual heart of Khajuraho, best explored leisurely to appreciate the narrative panels, detailing and remarkable craftsmanship that reveal new layers with every viewing, especially in the soft light of early morning or dusk. Don’t miss the son et lumière show at the temple.

Travel tips

Getting there. Gwalior and Khajuraho are well-connected by air/train/road.

Preparation. Good footwear, rain protection apparel, sun protection headwear and cream. Pack all essential medicines, as they are not easily available in smaller towns.

Best season to visit. October-May.

Guides: Hire the services of guides who will enhance your holiday with historical background, cultural context, and practical tips.

P.S. We used the services of the MP Tourism Board to arrange all travel, board and lodging.